The skateboard was initially made to be used for transportation and to let you have the feeling of street surfing. Back then, the skateboard was made of a flat, sturdy piece of wood, restricting the skater to just balancing and rolling tricks. When the first ‘ollie’ move was documented, things began to change.
This provided the skateboarder the ability to showcase their skateboarding tricks anywhere for the first time; bringing forth a new realm of possibilities for skateboarders. Therefore, the original skateboard was immediately outdated. In any case, if you’re hoping to learn how to make your own skateboard, you are probably at the right place.
Table of Contents
- Tiebond glue, 3 ultimate glue
- Frame press
- Band saw or jigsaw
- Router of rasp
- Clear coat lacquer and spray paint
- Painters tape
Do it yourself skateboard
Veneers to be used must be hard maple no other sort of maple since oak or pine is as strong as maple, and it will not break as easily. The veneers you will get are of three types and they are referred to as:
Face: a veneer sanded on one side however not sanded on the opposite side.
Core layer: it is much like the face, but none of its sides is sanded.
Cross band: this is the veneer sheet that is cut going against the grain and not with the grain.
Gluing the veneers
You can make use of a quality woodworking glue such as Titebond III or glue mainly made for skateboarding business or a similar waterproof glue. When applying the glue, it’s best to do it with a paint roller. Ideally one with no less than 4″ width and with a short nap. The amount of glue to apply is important and may vary from one glue to another.
Some people use around 3 ounces per plywood on a dry roller and 2 ounces per veneer on a wet roller. During the glue up process, it’s essential for you to have an even coat that’s not dried at any spot. The main issue during construction of skateboard is delamination, which is usually caused by inappropriate glue up. Therefore, work rapidly and ensure you apply the glue appropriately.
After gluing all the veneers together, it is now time for pressing. To start pressing, pick two pieces of cardboard that are around 3 inches longer and wider and then the unshaped board. At that point, place the frame on its side and then put the veneers in between the cardboard and the frame, then take 20” to 16” nuts with bolts, washers, and 2” to 4” channel irons.
The next thing is to put the channels irons in the middle of the frame so that it could be pressed nicely. When this is done, allow the skateboard deck to form for around 1 to 2 days for it to cure tremendous and robust.
Drilling the holes
You need to drill holes for the skateboard trucks using a drill press. You can likewise utilize a standard drill; however, the holes have to be perpendicular to the deck as much as possible. To find the holes, you can make use of an old deck or measure the exact center of the deck, locate the wheelbase and take it on from there. The truck holes have to be 1 5/8″ apart and 2 1/8″ from front to back. It is recommended to use a 3/16″ drill bit for the holes.
Shaping the skateboard
Shaping the skateboard decks is usually done using an old deck as a template. Make a pattern of the old deck on to your uncut blank for you to know where to cut to bring out the desired shape. Use a jigsaw or band saw to cut out your deck. You can likewise take regular skateboard measurements to figure out where to cut.
Routing and sanding the skateboard
The way a skateboard gets those rounded edges can be done by utilizing a lot of sanding or a router. You can use a mini router or a palm router as it is less lumbering and more comfortable to move around the skateboard deck. The radius amount is dictated by individual inclination, though 1/8 inches to 3/16 inches radius is what most pro decks have.
Once you have gotten the edges dealt with, you will need to sand your skateboard. It is useful however not essential to use an orbital sander. You can start with 80 grit sandpaper and logically work your way down to around 200 grit sandpaper. This should leave the board extremely smooth.
Sealing the skateboard
After sanding the deck smoothly, you can make use of tack cloth to get rid of the sawdust left behind. If you don’t know, a tack cloth is a cheesecloth coated in a specific sort of wax. This cloth works quite well, and it’s highly recommended to use one. Since your deck is now smooth and clear of sawdust, you can seal it.
You may use Deft Lacquer as it is a perfect choice. Don’t get it twisted, we aren’t trying to advertise a product here, but only want you to use the best available materials. There are many different products you could use here, but Deft is the best. But Deft smells awful. This implies that you should use it in a ventilated environment.
After sealing up the board, you can then proceed to the graphics. Spray paint, stencil, freehand or screen print… it depends on your choice. Just ensure that you utilize a paint with the same base from your final coat and sealer. This means if you used a water-based sealer, you should use a water-based paint. Also if you used a solvent-based sealer, you must use a solvent-based paint.
To build a skateboard, that’s all you need to know at RogerSkateboards. You’ve just completed a skateboard deck which you made for yourself right from scratch. Now it’s time to roll it out and display your mesmerizing skateboarding talent. It is that easy, but you have to follow the steps mentioned above carefully. Good luck skateboarding!